climbapedia.comThe Crags

There are world class crags within 30 minutes drive in all directions.  Whether it is the superb full on challenging endurance routes of St Leger and Malaucene or the technical walls and slabs of Rocher St. Julien and Ubrieux, this is a fantastic destination for climbers of all abilities.

A bit further away there is the famous Buoux, Orpierre and Seynes and a day trip to the Gorge du Verdon is certainly possible.

St Leger du Ventoux
World famous crag with some classic
test pieces from the mid 6’s to 8c on steep tufas,
grey slabs and fantastic orange walls.
Currently work in progress with new sectors
being open almost monthly.
For up to date info click this link here:
15 minutes drive away
5 – 20 minutes approach
300 routes from 5+ to 8c


Pillier de rumeur, 6B, St Leger - Crystelle

Neil McCallum, 6C, Venasque

Les Dentelles de Montmirail
Fantastic grey walls but with some steeper
stuff worth seeking out.
A series of crags in spectacular locations.
Great crag for the solid F6 leader.
20-30 minutes drive away
3 minutes to 20 minutes approach
500 routes from F3 to 8c.


Venasque
Something a bit different on rock known as
molasses limestone.
Vertical walls with slopers and pockets and
steep jug hauls up overhanging rock.
50 minutes drive
Roadside to 5 minute approach

Pont de Barret


Pont de Barret
A fantastic venue which not many foreign
climbers know about.
Steep climbing up welded blocky limestone
very much like Claret.
Total suntrap and suffers little seepage -
a fantastic winter and spring venue.
1 hour drive away
25 minutes approach
Malaucene
AKA Rochers du Groseau this is a great
crag with the best routes from 6a to 7b but
with a handful of 5’s to keep everyone happy.
Not a lot here but packs in plenty of quality
with many 3 star routes at each grade.
15 minutes drive
10 minutes to 15 minute approach
70 routes from 4 to 8b


Pipougne 7a, Malaucene - Alan Firth




Panic et Lime 6B, The Dentelles - Craig E
Ubrieux
The definitive “Euro Slab” crag with
some fantastic routes on
85 degree grey slabs but with the odd
steeper route thrown in for good measure.
15 minutes drive away
Roadside to 5 minutes approach
100 routes from 3 to 8b
Combe Obscure
Great little crag in a hidden valley near Bedoin.
Slabs and steep walls on perfect juggy grey
limestone with some hard technical routes too.
25 minutes drive
15 minutes approach
50 routes from 4 to 7C

Pete Chadwick, Sector Andalouse, St Leger
 
Baume Rousse
Great crag on the hillside above Buis les
Barronies.
Wins the crag with the best view competition
hands down.
With some easy grey slabs and some powerful
tufa climbs there’s something for everyone here.
20 minutes drive
5 minutes approach
90 routes from 3 to 8b+
 

Bellecombe
A dramatic fin of rock in a remote valley
to the north of Buis les Baronnies.
A hidden gem of a crag with a classic
4 pitch “must do” route - The Grand Arete
and some great wall climbing on perfect grey rock.
35 minutes drive away
5 minute approach
40 routes 5+ to 8a
St Julien
This magnificent fin of rock is the original Buis
les Baronnies crag and dominates the skyline
above the town.
More classic Euro Slabs and some great
multi pitch routes in a
stunning setting.
15 minutes drive
15 minutes approach
90 routes from 3 to 7b+
 

Orpierre
Classic old crag but with some newish sectors
out to the east of the village.
Great scene in the village with a climbing shop
and bar.
1h15m drive away
10 - 25 minutes approach
1000's of routes and particularly good from F4-F6

 Chubaka 7A+/7B, St Leger - Jerry Peel
 
   

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